Ancient tankers carry oil from Iraq to Jordan. With temperatures of 60c and bad brakes, they often crash.
New tyres cost six months' salary. Tyre-patchers along the roadside do a roaring trade.
Tanker drivers drive for 48 hours straight into Jordan. On the way back, they grab a chance to sleep.
Each tanker has a mobile larder, where drivers can store ice, food and their nargileh pipe.
In pre-sanctions, wealthy Iraq, Mercedes tankers and cars were standard. Behind the portable sinks, many drivers attach extra tanks of cheap petrol to sell over the border.